Temporary exhibition

Until August 17, 2025

Costume Balls

Dressing Up History, 1870-1927

A century and a half ago, extravagant costume balls and skating carnivals were the pinnacle of society entertainments, bringing forth a kaleidoscopic array of fanciful costumed characters. But, beneath all the anachronistic exuberance, these balls reinforced core myths of colonial destiny and imperial futures.

This exhibition captures the splendour of entertainments where, for just one evening, guests transformed themselves into characters inspired by history or fantasy. The invitation to reimagine oneself as an alter ego was no less than an opportunity of a lifetime, occasioning study, expense, and a trip to the photographer’s studio. Costume Balls: Dressing Up History, 1870-1927 tells an extraordinary story, showcasing some of the most extraordinary objects in the Museum’s collections.

Rarely do visitors get a chance to see so many garments from the nineteenth century —that have survived in spite of being created to last a single evening— in an exhibition space. And rarely do we see captured in photography such a lighthearted side of life from a time where public presentation of the self was a most serious matter. The exhibition fully explores the tremendous scale of the efforts to commemorate these balls, which in itself will surprise visitors, making clever use of digital technology all while taking a critical look at the way these grand events helped reinforce imperialist myths.

Costume Balls: Dressing Up History, 1870-1927, will open on November 14, 2024, 100 years to the day of a large costume ball held on November 14, 1924, at the Mount Royal Hotel in MontrealPresented by La Presse and in collaboration with College LaSalle Montréal, a member of LCI Education, the exhibition is running until August 17, 2025. 

Extraordinary objects from the Museum’s collections

Over 40 dazzling outfits worn will be on display as well as photographs of guests in costume, souvenir publications and more —that capture the spirit and prestige of these grand events. This exhibition and the accompanying publication represent the culmination of a research effort which draws on the quintessential strengths of the McCord Stewart Museum’s rich collections. Many remarkable discoveries, unveiled to the public for the first time.

  • Frederic Marlett Bell-Smith, <em>Carnival, Victoria Skating Rink</em>, 1871-1874. Gift of Richard Renaud, M2022.11.1, McCord Stewart Museum
  • Drucker & Baltes, <em>Costume ball for Anna Cowans, Montreal</em>, 1924. Gift of Joan Elspeth Bourne, MP-1984.125, McCord Stewart Museum
  • Dress worn by Magdeleine Hébert as "Marie-Thérèse de Bourbon" in 1927. Gift of Magdeleine Garneau Monast, M2017.41.1, McCord Stewart Museum
  • Rice Studio Limited, <em>Magdeleine Hébert as "Marie-Thérèse de Bourbon," Montreal</em>, 1927. Gift of Magdeleine Garneau Monast, M2017.41.4, McCord Stewart Museum
  • Dress worn by Andrée Béïque in 1927. Gift of Suzanne Bernardin, MMQ1993.19.02, McCord Stewart Museum
  • Dress worn by Linnie Stewart from 1876 to 1896. Gift of Martha Courtwright, M2004.78.2.1-4, McCord Stewart Museum
  • Wm. Notman & Son, <em>Daisy Simpson as "A Court Lady," Montreal</em>, 1898, McCord Stewart Museum, II-123054
  • Dress worn by Alice Scott as "A Deck of Cards" in 1887. Gift of Katherine Cleaver, M2014.111.96.1-3, McCord Stewart Museum
  • Costume worn by Florence M. David as "An Incroyable" in 1880. Gift of Mabel Bentham, M2022X.1.5.1-3, McCord Stewart Museum
  • Notman & Sandham, <em>Florence M. David as "An Incroyable," Montreal</em>, 1880, McCord Stewart Museum, II-56542.1
  • Notman & Sandham, <em>Forbes Torrance as "Hereward the Wake," Montreal</em>, 1881, McCord Stewart Museum, II-60271.1
  • Costume worn by Alice Graham as "Mary, Mary, Quite Contrary" in 1907. Gift of the Estate of Alice Hallward, M972.75.71.1.1-6
  • Wm. Notman & Son, <em>Alice Graham as "Mary, Mary, Quite Contrary," Montreal</em>, 1907, painted photograph. Gift of the Estate of Alice Hallward, M972.75.70, McCord Stewart Museum

A beautifully illustrated book

The book Costume Balls: Dressing Up History, 1870–1927, co-published by 5 Continents Editions and the Museum, explores a treasure trove of over 40 extant garments that capture all the immediacy of a series of historically-themed balls held primarily in Montreal and Quebec City. With lavish detail photography juxtaposed with archival images, it brings into conversation curators and conservation experts from the Museum who delve into minute details of extant material culture to reveal unexpected histories and connections.

Cynthia Cooper offers current insight into the appeal of dressing up at this historical moment and the foundational myths at play in the choice of historical figures. Jonathan Lainey looks at the way extant objects from Indigenous cultures were deployed in fictional representations of the “Indian.” Zoë Tousignant explores the popularity of composite photography as a means of recording these costumed spectacles. Caterina Florio describes the challenges involved in restoring the impressive number of outfits featured in the exhibition.

Under the direction of Cynthia Cooper. Photographs by Laura Dumitriu. $65 | At the Museum Boutique.

Step into the world of the exhibition!

Creating the exhibition Costume Balls: Dressing Up History, 1870-1927 is the result of a monumental effort. Meet the Museum’s teams of experts and learn more about their work and their discoveries through blog articles, video interviews, behind-the-scenes photos, and much more!
Explore

  • Dress worn by Lucienne Ahern as “Lady Melvin” in 1927. Gift of Elaine Normandeau, M2022.12.1, McCord Stewart Museum
  • Mounting the exhibition. Roger Aziz © McCord Stewart Museum, 2024
  • Conservation by Sonia Kata, Laura Dumitriu © McCord Stewart Museum, 2024
  • <em>Fancy Dresses Described</em>, 4th edition, Ardern Holt, Debenham & Freebody, London, 1884, McCord Stewart Museum, M2024.61.4
  • Costume worn by Joseph Philippe Baby Casgrain as “Robespierre” in 1927. Gift of the Estate of David W. Casgrain, M2007.50.1, McCord Stewart Museum
  • Caroline Bourgeois, Conservation Assistant, specialized in costume mounting, Laura Dumitriu © McCord Stewart Museum, 2024

Symposium in March 2025

A symposium on the making of the exhibition will be held at the Museum on March 20 and 21, 2025. More information coming soon.

5 Things to Know 

Dressing Up a Century Ago

Many of the costumes on display were immortalized in photographs.! For the affluent guests who attended these balls, having their photograph taken in fancy dress was a must. We see them in lighthearted moments, in contrast to the solemnity usually displayed in portraits of the period. 

History Within History

The exhibition is about history as it was understood in the past: it shows how the past was represented a century and a half ago. The garments and images on display show how historical figures from earlier eras were imagined at the time. At historically themed balls, guests took pleasure in dressing up as figures from Canadian history A few even wore outfits that had belonged to their ancestors!

Fun was taken very seriously!

Beyond being about having fun, balls created around Canadian historical themes engaged all participants in a popular vision of the colonial past and future in the Empire. 

Dressing up Colonial Violence

One hundred and fifty years ago, ball-goers often chose costumes that were caricatures of the Other.”  The practice continues to provoke heated debate today. The exhibition sheds light on why this issue remains sensitive in contemporary society, and examines it as an act of colonial violence. 

Changing Meanings

In the 19th century, the practice of dressing up, as well as the costumes that were worn were known as “fancy dress.” A fancy dress ball is one where guests came in costume. 

Acknowledgements

The Museum would like to thank its team and all those who contributed, directly and indirectly, to the presentation of this exhibition.

An exhibition produced by the McCord Stewart Museum

Curatorship
Cynthia Cooper, Head, Collections and Research and Curator, Dress, Fashion and Textiles, McCord Stewart Museum

Project management
François Vallée, Head, Exhibitions, McCord Stewart Museum

Exhibition design
Mélanie Crespin

Graphic design
Laurent Pinabel

Video editing and creation
Mirari


McCord Stewart Museum team

Exhibitions
Eve Martineau, Coordinator, Exhibitions
Caroline Truchon, Senior Project Manager, Exhibitions
Melissa Jacques, Supervisor, Technical Services, Exhibitions
Olivier LeBlanc-Roy, Technician, Exhibitions
Siloë Leduc, Technician, Exhibitions
Joëlle Blanchette, Technician, Exhibitions

Curation
Zoë Tousignant, Curator, Photography
Jonathan Lainey, Curator, Indigenous Cultures

Conservation
Caterina Florio, Head, Conservation
Sonia Kata, Conservator
Sara Serban, Conservator
Caroline Bourgeois, Conservation Assistant
Denis Plourde, Conservation Assistant
Camille Lafrance, Conservator
Maria Castaneda Delgado, Conservator
Amelia Desjardins, Technician, Conservation

Collections Management and Digital Outreach
Karine Rousseau, Head, Collections Management
Geneviève Déziel, Cataloguing Coordinator, Collections Management
Camille Deshaies-Forget, Assistant, Collections Management
Ana Luiza Colares Prasser, Archivist
Lorie-Anne Chamberland, Technician, Collections Management

Stéphanie Poisson, Head, Digital Outreach, Collections and Exhibitions
Laura Dumitriu, Senior Photographer
Anne-Frédérique Beaulieu-Plamondon, Officer, Digital Outreach, Collections and Exhibitions
Mélissa Legros, Technician, Digital Integration

Education, Community Engagement and Cultural Programs
Elysa Lachapelle, Project Manager, Education, Community Engagement and Cultural Programs
Clara Chouinard, Project Manager, Education, Community Engagement and Cultural Programs
Facilitator Team

Marketing, Communications and Visitor Experience
Catherine Morellon, Head, Communications
Lison Cherki, Officer, Public Development


External team

Editing and translation
Marc Collin, French
Edith Skewes-Cox, English

Printing
Graphiscan
Louis Lussier

Installation
Espace Montage

Multimedia installation
Éric Fauque

Furniture manufacturing
AKTUEL

Lighting design
Lightfactor

Collaborators
Vincent Cardinal
Douglas Sanderson
Andrew Stobo Sniderman
Jocelyn Sioui

Loan Institutions
Library and Archives Canada
Montreal Museum of Fine Arts Library
McGill University Library
Greenwood Centre for Living History
Château Ramezay
Fort Henry
Canadian Museum of History

Not to be missed!

Exhibition presented by
In collaboration with
Thanks to our partners
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